The Sacred Wonders of Madhyapur Thimi

Postofday
22 Min Read


The ancient city was named “Madhyapur” in ancient times because it was located in the center of the valley between kingdoms of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Lalitpur. “Madhya” means centre, and “Pur” means city.” During the Malla era, Madhyapur Thimi was known as “Themring,” as evidenced by an inscription of Vimal Sangha at the Deopatan Pashupati shrine dated 407 (485 CE), during the reign of Manadeva I. There is an interesting legend about how the place came to be called Thimi.

It is believed that the people of Thimi successfully defended the ancient Kingdom of Bhaktapur from enemy states. The Kings of Bhaktapur called the residents of Madhyapur “Chemmi,” meaning “capable people,” praising them for their bravery and resilience. Although most of the surviving temples in Thimi were built during the Malla era. Inscriptions and monuments from the Lichhavi era found in the area suggest the town existed by that period (250 to 800 AD).

However, there is evidence that the city may be as old as 3000 BC. A recent study compared the regular grid layout of Madhyapur Thimi to other ancient cities in the Indus Valley. And the details of the grid dimensions of city blocks were found to be very close to those of the world’s earliest major cities, Mohenjo-daro and Sirkap.

The Sacred Balkumari Temple

Among Thimi’s most revered landmarks stands the historic Balkumari Temple, one of the four principal Kumari temples in Kathmandu Valley. This magnificent three-story structure, dating back to the 17th century, enshrines Goddess Balkumari, the divine protector believed to safeguard the ancient town. As the presiding deity of Thimi, Balkumari holds special significance in local traditions. The vibrant Sindur Jatra (Vermilion Festival), an integral part of Biska Jatra celebrations, commences from this sacred temple. During this joyous annual festival, the community comes alive as devotees playfully smear each other with sindur (vermillion powder) while traditional Newa musical ensembles fill the air.

The highlight remains the grand procession featuring 32 ornate palanquins carrying various deities through the town’s streets. The sacred peacock holds a distinguished position as the divine vehicle (vahana) of goddess Balkumari in Hindu tradition. There are peacock idols in every corner of the temple including a column in front of the temple. According to ancient lore from Kathmandu Valley, an enchanted peacock associated with the goddess has been reportedly glimpsed near the sacred ponds that are characteristic features of Balkumari temples.

These accounts tell of a magnificent bird that appears to swim in these consecrated waters, defying the normal behavior of its species.  One of the most compelling elements of this mythology is the belief that the goddess’s peacock possesses the supernatural ability to transmute objects into gold through its touch. This magical attribute adds to the profound mystique surrounding Balkumari’s avian companion. This divine association follows the broader Hindu tradition of vahanas – sacred mounts that serve as vehicles for deities. The term “vahana,” derived from Sanskrit, literally means “that which carries” or “that which pulls.” These carefully chosen animal and avian companions are not merely modes of transport; they represent the spiritual and psychological forces that embody each deity’s essential nature.

Legend says her peacock turns anything it touches to gold, deepening the enigma of goddess Balkumari’s divine companion. Photo: Sambid Bilas Pant

The Bishnu Bir Temple

The Bishnu Bir Temple in Thimi is dedicated to the goddess Vaishnavi. She embodies the Asthamatrika and represents the unified power of Mahakali, Mahalaxmi, and Mahasaraswati. According to local folklore, this temple played a crucial role in the historical rivalry. It was between the kingdoms of Kantipur (present-day Kathmandu) and Bhaktapur.

Legend tells that Kantipur struggled to overcome Bhaktapur in battle until their tantric practitioners discovered the source of Bhaktapur’s resilience. The residents of Thimi would perform protective rituals at the west-facing Bishnu Bir Temple.

The practitioners determined that reorienting the temple to face east would neutralize its protective power over Bhaktapur. And they employed various strategies to convince Thimi’s residents to rebuild the temple with this new orientation.

The temple maintains great cultural importance in contemporary religious festivals. During the Biska Jatra, the temple’s palanquin (known as the Bishnu Bir Khat) leads the ceremonial procession, followed by other deities. The Bishnu Bir Khat Jatra features unique customs that mirror traditional death rituals: participants play the shibaj (musical instruments typically reserved for funeral ceremonies), and the palanquin bearers observe the mourning custom of remaining bareheaded as they carry the goddess through the streets of Thimi.

Tantrics found Bhaktapur’s secret: Thimi’s warriors worshipped their west-facing Bishnu Bir Temple for invincibility. Photo: Sambid Bilas Pant

The Layaku Palace of Thimi

The Layaku Palace of Thimi holds significant historical importance, with roots dating back to the Lichhavi period. Oral traditions indicate it served as the residence of Prince Baladeva, son of King Narendra, who ruled from 643 to 679 CE. The palace complex was fortified with substantial walls and robust gates. Prince Baladeva’s cultural contributions included the establishment of various religious structures, notably the Karunamaya temple, also referred to as Heranyavarna Mahavihar. The present palace structure, however, dates to the 18th century, constructed by Ranajit Malla, the final ruler of Bhaktapur (r. 1722-1769), as a residence for his queen.

Local historical accounts describe a significant battle during Ranajit Malla’s reign, where Thimi’s residents demonstrated remarkable valor in defending Bhaktapur. According to legend, a formidable warrior emerged from Layaku’s entrance near the Taleju Bhavani shrine, distinctively attired in white and fully armed with a two-edged sword, dagger, chain-decorated helmet, and shield. This historical event is commemorated annually during the Madhyapur Thimi’s Kha: Pihanvaigu Jatra, a tradition believed to span approximately three centuries. The residents’ exceptional bravery so impressed the king that he bestowed upon them the honorary title “Chhemi,” meaning “capable people.” This designation of respect for their unwavering loyalty eventually evolved into the modern name “Thimi.”

The present palace was built in the 1700s by Bhaktapur’s last king, Ranajit Malla, as a queen’s retreat. Photo: Sambid Bilas Pant

Nigu Pukhu

Nigu Pukhu, also known as Dui Pokhari, is a historical site consisting of two ponds located in Madhyapur Thimi. The name derives from Newari, where “Nigu” means two and “Pukhu” means pond. The site was established in the 16th century by Queen Ganga Maharani (also known as Ganga Devi) of Bhaktapur. Ganga Maharani initially served as queen consort to King Vishva Malla before ascending to become queen regnant in 1558. She co-ruled the Kingdom of Bhaktapur alongside her two sons, Tribhuvana and Trailokya Malla. During their reign, the kingdom expanded significantly, incorporating the Kingdom of Banepa, which included the regions of Banepa, Panauti, Dhulikhel, and Nala.

The construction of Nigu Pukhu holds particular significance due to Queen Ganga Maharani’s connection to Thimi through her father. This relationship exemplifies the strong historical ties between Bhaktapur and Thimi. Following Bhaktapur’s tradition of palace and pond construction, the Queen established similar architectural features in Thimi. Historical records indicate that during the construction of Thimi Palace (Layaku), the local settlement relocated to Nagadesh, northwest of Layaku.

The ponds are positioned between the Balkumari temple and Digudole (Digu Khyan), the latter being the clan deity temple for Thimi’s Newar community. A white stone marker, known as “saplangya” in Newari, stands between the two ponds. The positioning of the ponds is historically significant, as they marked the city’s boundary, with one pond lying within the city limits and the other outside. During the festival of Ghode Jatra, traditional rituals are performed at this site, where offerings are made at the city’s boundaries to appease spirits and prevent them from entering the city. The boundary line runs between the two ponds, confirming their historical role as city limits markers. In 1958, during King Mahendra’s visit to Thimi, the ponds were drained to create an open space for welcoming ceremonies. Since then, the area was primarily been used for crop drying purposes until its reconstruction in 2020.

The Nigu ponds played a pivotal role in determining agricultural outcomes for farmers in the kingdom of Bhaktapur. These rainfall-dependent reservoirs not only helped in irrigation but also served as crucial indicators of precipitation levels, directly influencing crop yields and market prices. When water levels in the ponds were low, indicating insufficient rainfall, the prices of staple crops such as wheat and rice would rise accordingly due to reduced agricultural productivity.

The ancestral home of Ganga Maharani is located in Madhyapur Thimi, where, according to local belief, she was born. Ganga Maharani holds an unparalleled position in the folklore of Bhaktapur and Thimi, with her legacy surpassing that of any other ruler in local cultural memory. To this day, residents of Thimi continue to preserve and identify a specific residence as her birthplace. Her rule was marked by territorial expansion, most notably the annexation of the Kingdom of Banepa, which encompassed Banepa, Panauti, Dhulikhel, and Nala, into the Kingdom of Bhaktapur. The residents of Lubhu attribute the founding of their city to her leadership.

These unassuming reservoirs didn’t just water crops, they predicted harvests, controlled prices, and held an empire’s fate in their ripples. Photo: Sambid Bilas Pant

Wakhachhen Mahadev Temple

Historical records indicate that the Wakhachhen Mahadev Temple (originally called Wakha), located in Siwatole, Thimi, is the oldest temple in Thimi. Constructed in the 15th century, the temple’s establishment is attributed to the joint reign of Kings Yakshya Malla and Jeeva Malla, as evidenced by a stone inscription. Yakshya Malla, who later became the last king of a unified Kathmandu Valley (circa 1428-1482), oversaw a period of significant cultural and architectural development. Following his death, the valley was divided among his sons. Siwatole, the site of the temple, is the oldest settlement in Madhyapur Thimi, with origins tracing back to the Licchavi period.

The Digu Bhairava temple

The Digu Bhairava temple, constructed in 15th century is a two-story structure dedicated to dual deities. The eastern entrance, which opens only on select occasions, leads to the shrine of Digudha (Kuldevta), the lineage deity revered by many residents of Madhyapur Thimi. The temple’s southern entrance remains accessible year-round, allowing devotees to worship Prachanda Bhairava, whose name translates to “Strong, powerful, and fierce.” It’s believed that he protects the residents of Madhyapur Thimi from ghosts and evil spirits.

The Dabali in front of the Digu Bhairava Temple is the site where the Digu Tole tongue-piercing festival, an annual cultural celebration is held. The ceremony takes place the day following Indra Jatra. The preparation process begins on Janai Purnima, when participants must worship Nakarmi and request the crafting of a specialized piercing needle. This needle, fashioned in a trident shape with three points, requires a month-long purification period submerged in pure mustard oil.

One week before the festival, participants conduct a ceremonial worship at Balkumari Temple, which includes the offering of a rooster, traditionally performed on Wednesday. During the ceremony, participants undergo tongue piercing using iron needles measuring approximately 10 inches in length and half an inch in thickness. Following the
piercing, they must journey through various districts of Madhyapur Thimi while carrying an Aakashdeep—a half-moon shaped ceremonial object weighing approximately 40 kilograms, constructed from 19 Nigalo (Himalayan bamboo) sticks.

The ritual concludes at Balkumari Temple, where the needle is removed and the piercing is sealed with sacred mud from the temple grounds. The following day, the needle is ceremonially placed at the temple’s entrance. So far, over 300 bundles of needles have been discovered around the temple premises. According to local legend, the town of Thimi was plagued by a malevolent spirit approximately a millennium ago. A powerful priest, through the use of tantric rituals, created mystical barriers to contain the entity. Once captured, the spirit was led through the streets of Thimi with its tongue pierced as a sign of its subjugation. Today’s festival serves as a ceremonial reenactment of this ancient folk tale.

The Desay Madu Jhya

The Desay Madu Jhya (“the only window of its kind in the country”) is a rare architectural heritage found in an ageing house in Maru Tol, Madhyapur Thimi. This small latticed window (Tikijhya/San Jhya) features two patterned openings that balance ventilation with privacy. The window showcases exceptional Malla-era (12th-18th century) woodcarving with intricate floral, geometric and religious motifs. Such finely crafted elements were created by skilled artisans before mass production and often symbolized the homeowner’s wealth and social standing.

The Pati Bihar

The Pati Bihar, located in Madhyapur Thimi, is a sacred monastery dedicated to Dipankara Buddha, who holds significance as one of the twenty-four Buddhas before whom the Bodhisatva proclaimed his aspirations. This monastery stands as one of nine notable Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries constructed during the 17th century. By this period, Dipankara Buddha had emerged as a revered figure among the Buddhist community in Madhyapur Thimi, where devotees regarded him as both a guardian of merchants and a symbol of charitable giving. Within the monastery’s Chaitya (shrine), visitors will find an impressive 13-foot statue of the Buddha.

Gunakriti Mahavihar

Gunakriti Mahavihar stands as one of the oldest monasteries (vihar) in Madhyapur Thimi. Situated in Digu Tole, the monastery is also referred to as Digu Baha, deriving its name from its location. The complex houses a significant statue of Padmasambhava, known in Tibetan Buddhism as Guru Rinpoche (“Precious Master”), a highly venerated master who is said to have resided here briefly during his historic journey to Tibet. Padmasambhava is closely associated with the Vajrayana tradition, a tantric school of Buddhism characterized by its emphasis on ritualistic practices, symbolic representations, and specialized techniques for attaining enlightenment.

At the center of the monastery grounds stands a chaitya dating to the Lichhavi period, representing considerable historical and architectural significance. Additionally, the complex currently under renovation, features statues of Dipankar Buddha, which were established during the 16th century CE, further contributing to the site’s rich Buddhist heritage and artistic legacy.

Gunga Chiwa

Located on the northern side of the historic town of Madhyapur Thimi, Gunga Chiwa is another significant cultural and religious landmark. The site features nine chaityas mounted on a 3-foot-high platform, giving it its name Gunga meaning “nine” and Chiwa referring to “chaitya.” The exact date of Gunga Chiwa establishment remains undocumented, but its association with various cultural and religious practices in Thimi suggests considerable antiquity. One of the key elements enhancing its sacred status is the presence of Manjushree Pali, which translates to the “footprint of Manjushree”, a revered figure in Buddhist tradition believed to have drained the Kathmandu Valley’s ancient lake to make it habitable.

During important life-cycle ceremonies such as Bratabandha, marriage, Janko ceremony (old-age rituals), Sanya (Buddhist ordination), and Gunla festival, devotees traditionally perform a circumambulation (kora) around both Gunga Chiwa and the Balkumari Temple, located on the southern side of the settlement. This practice underscores the site’s integral role in the spiritual and communal life of Thimi’s residents.

Siddha Kali Temple

The 17th-century Siddha Kali Temple is Madhyapur Thimi’s most artistically significant shrine. This ancient Shaktipeeth is situated in Inayekwo in northwestern Thimi. It is traditionally believed to mark the spot where the right eye of Goddess Sati descended to earth. As one of the sacred sites linked to Sati’s divine body parts, it attracts devotees seeking the goddess’s empowering presence. This architectural gem showcases breathtaking wood carvings.

With particular attention drawn to the ornate doorway featuring an exquisitely carved figure of Lord Ganesh. The two-story pagoda is topped with a golden copper roof and a shimmering pinnacle.

Within the temple complex, numerous divine statues create a spiritual ambiance. Among them shines the vibrant idol of Vasudhara – the six-armed, three-faced Earth Goddess. The central figure of Vasudhara, the deity of fertility, wealth, and abundance, is flanked by Laxmi on her left and Kumar on her right. She is particularly revered by farmers, who seek bountiful harvests, and by merchants, who pray for prosperous businesses.

A short distance away stands the awe-inspiring Sahasrabhuj Lokeshwara sculpture. This thousand-armed manifestation of compassion, worshipped throughout Asia, features palms each bearing an all-seeing eye – symbolizing the deity’s ability to perceive human suffering. Buddhist scriptures recount how the compassionate lord’s original two arms multiplied into a thousand when they shattered from his desperate attempts to aid all beings, with Amitabha Buddha granting him these divine appendages to extend his merciful reach.

Madhyapur Thimi’s Hidden Pottery Heritage

While Bhaktapur’s pottery square is widely recognized, Madhyapur Thimi harbours several historic pottery squares, with Chapacho being a notable example. Dating back to the 15th century, this pottery square was established when Prajapati artisans and Chitrakar mask makers first settled in the area. Unlike Bhaktapur’s more tourist-populated pottery square, Chapacho remains an isolated and lesser-known location. Despite its obscurity, the pottery workshops here produce exceptional, unique ceramics renowned for their distinctive quality and design. These artisans have successfully expanded their market, even selling their distinctive pottery internationally.





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